To buy a Delta II/SubTank or not

Hello,

Considering my offer of a trade for my atlantis for either a delta II or subtank mini is not going too well I was wondering whether I should just go ahead a buy either one.

Just want to check a couple of things before I enter the world of rebuildables:

1) Are both clearomisers OK for mouth to lung hits? Which one is better in terms of this?

2) For the rebuildable bit - do you need a separate ohm reader or is using the ohm reader from an iStick ok?

3) Again on the rebuildables - I notice the subtank doesn't come with wire. What would be the standard type/gauge wire I should purchase if I choose the subtank. Realise it's all personal preference but whats the most common.

4) Ermmm.... ran out of questions.

Thanks in advance!

T

 

1) Yes, as they both have adjustable airflow. Generally want a tighter draw for m-t-l.

2) If you really get into rebuilding, it's probably better to get a separate ohm reader - safer that way. Note: the Delta II does not come with a rebuildable head, have to purchase separately.

3) Really depends on what resistance you're shooting for. For example, I usually vape around 1 ohm @ 30 watts - for that with a single coil, I use 26 awg with a 2.5 mm id. Go to steam-engine.org and use the coil calculator to get a general idea on how many wraps it will take for different coils at different wire gauges.

Having said all that, I would recommend the Kanger Subtank Mini over the Delta II any day (I own both). The build quality of the Subtank is excellent, better than most, if not all, of the subohm tanks out there, and is noticeably better than the Delta II. Also, the Delta II can be a pain to refill - the center chimney does not come out, so you need a needle tip to refill, and visibility of juice levels is not great.

The Delta II is a decent tank, but the Subtank mini is just better IMO.

Edit: And you can rebuild the OCC coil heads of the Subtank mini, as well.

 

My Ohms meter stoped working after a week, so good to use as a build stand, and then I have to use one of my mods to read the correct Ohms. It can do for the time being. So as long as you can mesure the Ohms its fine.

I don't have either of these tanks, since I am only dealing in rebuildables now, but for mouth to lung hits, I would also consider the Lemo RTA. which comes pre-wicked, so you can see how that is being done.

 

I respectfully disagree with @monkey39, but that doesn't necessarily mean he's wrong and I'm right.

I have both the Subtank Mini & Delta II.
I prefer the Delta II but there's not a lot in it TBH. It was weeks before I even began to like the Subtank Mini.
Build quality is better on the Delta. It is 'less easy' to fill but it's not an issue. I could probably fill it quicker than my Lemo 2.
The RBA section is better quality on the Subtank.
To me the Subtank feels like it has more airflow (I think I have a v2).
A quick, thorough cleaning of the Delta II is not possible due to its design.
The Subtank looks better. The Delta looks huge due to its design but is only 1mm taller.

Might be worth looking at a Triton or something else if the odd choice of 22.5mm isn't an issue.

Just to add, I thought the coils on both were shit but better on the Delta although they needed a lot more power.

*I didn't really read the OP properly lol

 

We'll have to agree to disagree! The Lemo 2 is my current favorite RTA, the Subtank is my current favorite subohm tank (with the ni200 coils, at any rate).

 

Delta II > Lemo 2 > Subtank Mini > Lemo Drop
Haven't tried the ni200 coils yet, it's on the todo list.

 

I really can't do mouth to lung on my subtank...I don't have the Delta II, but I do have the Mega and can do M2L on that no problem at all. I would also consider Rick's suggestion of the Triton tank due out soon.

 

My current daily setup is a Kanger Subtank (25 mm) w/ni200 coil on my IPV4. Last coil lasted almost a month. Of course I'm also the kind of guy who drives the same car until it's falling apart around me, so YMMV.

 

My own experience is that a subohm tank is not just what I will call a mouth to lung friendly tank.

The Lemo RTA or the Lemo 2 with a smaller driptip are in my experience better for mouth to lung hits.

 

I would agree with that, for the most part. I'm exclusively a mouth to lung vaper; lung hits still make me cough. The subohm tanks will work for mouth to lung, though, as long as you can tighten up the draw. But I tend to like a more airy draw, anyway. Never was much of a fan of Kayfuns because of that.

 

If the OP is going for a rebuildable, why not the Kayfun V4, supposedly the best in the MTL category.

Unless OP wants to keep a disposable coil option available, then forget the KF..

 

OK, reading the OP properly.

1: the airflow can be closed down better on the Delta due to its design. It can be done with the Subtank but I guess it could easily move due to its 'ball bearing' action. The Delta has a more suitable drip tip but that's easily rectified. I have no idea what newer subtanks are like, there seem to be many revisions.

2: You can get away with just the iStick reader. I have a couple and very rarely use them. In fact I don't even know where they are. I usually use my SXmini for such measurements

3: Depends what resistance you want. 28ga is usually a good start but the subtank rba doesn't have much space for long coils whereas the Delta II has the option for bigger coils as you can use the screw tops or post holes (I am forced to use the post holes on mine as the screws are crap, another negative for the Delta as coiling is a bit more difficult).
I would go with 26-28ga for Kanthal.

 

The Kayfun V4 is a "monster" to deal with, when you are a newbie in rebuildables. The tank is far to complicated. That is why i suggest a Lemo RTA or Lemo 2, since they are a lot easier to disassemble and they also, mine did, came pre-coiled, so that a newbie has a good change, to see the build and go from there.

 

Good point @Dieter, I heard it is not the easiest to build indeed.