lets talk volts

this might be a simple question that i can look up elsewhere but i figured it might benefit others to read the answers as well. when running a battery in mech mod, how many volts is it putting out? i know the volts will decline as the battery is used, but does it start at 4.2 or 3.7? i have heard both in various places and am not sure which is correct. .5 volts is a big difference when running the ohms calculator to find amps.

 

If you charge to 4.2, EFest charger from Micky, then your batterys will be charged to about 4.25 when full, after this the voltage will start to drop.

 

When using a freshly charged VTC4 in my Nemesis, I normally get a reading of 4.18 on my voltmeter. Now when you connect an atty, your voltage will drop depending on the resistance of the coil. A lower ohm'd coil will have a bigger drop than a higher ohm'd coil. There is a formula for it, but I'm on my iPhone so I'm not going to look it up.

 

The voltmeter on my Efest LUC from Micky is dead on, it reads the same as my inline voltmeter and separate multimeter. Mine always charges to 4.2v +/- .02v.

 

1st thx for that one

2nd ... so why are the batteries then classified as 3.7 Volts when they are in real 4.2 V

 

The majority of the time they are discharging at 3.7 volts. It is the mean discharge voltage.

 

thats what i was asking, maybe i wasnt clear. i will ask again just in case.

what is the discharge voltage of IMR batteries (AW, Efest, etc)

 

thx, so talking about discharge currents, is it really the more the better (therefore the US18650VTC4s) with 30A + 60 peak,
or wouldnt it be suffcient enought to have a discharge current of 10-15A?

i mean for what special case would i benefit in having a much higher discharge current

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i am asking cause most of the Sony Batteries are sold out, and alternatively i ve read some reviews about this battery
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19898
which seems to be superior compared to most others, from what i read on forums they even say they are better then the Sony s

Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh (Green)
Nominal Capacity : 2000mAh
Nominal voltage : 3.6V
Max. discharge current: 22A
Charging voltage 4.2 ±0.05 V

 

Again, the discharge voltage changes depending on the resistance of the load. Say I'm using my VTC4 in my Nemesis, it will read at 4.18 with no load. Let's say I place a 2.2 ohm load on it, it may drop down to 4.1 volts. If I place a .3 ohm load on it, it might drop down to 3.8 volts. These are figures off the top of my head BTW. He voltage will continue to decrease obviously as you discharge the battery.

 

With a higher amp rating, you not only have the ability to run a lower resistance coil, you also have a wider margin in case you have a short, and theoretically a lower internal resistance. On a regulated device, this means it will last longer before it cuts out on you. 30A is overkill even for me, but that is the battery I've chosen. What works for me isn't necessarily the best for you. The new Panasonic 18650BD (don't quote me on any of this, I'm just running off memory) batteries are 10 amp and 3400mAh, which might be better for most users of regulated devices.

 

btw, 3rd question
i must ask you again, cause you have the gift to explain totally complicated electric stuff in kinda easy understandable words

i always thought that the mAh basially tells me the higher the longer the battery will hold, in terms of vapetime per charge,
is it possible that f.e. subohm coils literally drain my battery lifetime into the nirvana? cause i recently built some nice sub ohm coils, and what i learned so far is to always use the good 30A batteries on subohms for safety, however it often feels for me, that they are powerless very quickly?

am i mistaken in this view or is it really like that?

 

I read/heard the same. Have a couple coming from FT $10.51 Samsung INR18650-20R 3.6V 2000mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries (2-Pack) - max discharging current 15A / unprotected at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

You aren't dreaming, it's really like that. When you sub you're using a ton of power. The mAh rating is just what it's supposed to be, milliamphours. When you're vaping at 15000 milliamps on a 2500 mAh battery, then you factor in that you aren't draining the battery completely, you really won't get that much time off it. A lot of people who sub ohm constantly will change out batteries 3 times while watching a 2 hour movie.

Hopefully now people are starting to understand the desire for these new 50 and 100 watt regulated mods. If you build your dripper to say .3 ohms, you'll start out at around 51 watts on a fresh battery (3.9v factoring voltage drop). By the time you reach 3.7 volts you'll only be at 45 watts. At 3.5 you'll be down to 41 watts, a 20% reduction in power from where you started. A regulated device like the GI2 will give you the full 50 watts from start to finish, by boosting the output voltage.

 

Oil: mah = milliamp-hours



So a 1000mah battery will (if you could drain it to zero) give a current of 1Amp for 1 hour of continuous discharge. Or a current of 2Amps for 30 minutes. 4Amps for 15minutes

So the higher the current the quicker the battery drains

 

Heck, reading posts about my Vapor Shark (only a 1200 mAh battery), a lot of people are thrilled using them at 30 watts for just an hour or two, just because their vape is consistent for that whole time and they don't have to keep swapping batteries.