YiHi SX350J Temperature and Joule chip

We'll have to do some NI200 swapsies at a future VM. I have 29ga. YiHi recommends a 0.065 build which is pretty damn low lol

**Updated**

I'm not sure what the NI200 is like on FT. Seemed to be priced competitively, I might order a bit to see.

**Updated**

Continued...

I scrapped the Bambino for the time being for a Kanthal build but my intentions were always to give the Lemo Drop a bash with NI200 and a last chance to impress before getting the boot.

I opted for a 2mm / 8 wrap spaced coil which ended up at 0.13r.
Due to the softness of NI200 and the size of the coil I opted to wick it a different way that what I usually use;



I set it to 21J / 450f and fired it up.

At the risk of sounding like a complete *****...
"It was the best vape I have ever had on the Lemo Drop. BY A MILE!".

 

Rick, as I see your build is a contact coil in this one? Not a spaced coil right?

How is contact coil work on the temperature control? Is it work ok like spaced coil?

 

Spaced coils are usually more reliable and less prone to having hot spots that can throw off the resistance readings. Evolv recommends spaced coils because of that. Still, some people have had good success with contact coils. I had problems experimenting with a contact coil and have been using spaced exclusively since.

 

It was spaced, just not very well spaced
I haven't tried a contact coil at all with temp mode. The build I had above in the Lemo is working very well and the best vape I have had from the Lemo in all the time I have owned it, but I never really liked it much anyway.

 

Thanks Scratchy and Rick.

I try to build a spaced coil myself but still get the hot spots, which I think that's human error not the device. Well it's time to practice more and more and more until I perfect it. Quite hard to build a spaced nickel coil compare to the tightly compact kanthal.

 

@r_pakit This may or may not be of use...

 

Well welcome to crash bang coil building 3rd time lucky a coil that is .07 7 wraps in ni200 in the lemo 2 25 J temp at 400f thick creamy flavorsome vape i think i'm in love :}

 

I saw a useful tip for Nickel build spaced coils -the guy used a light gauge bolt to wrap the Nickel wire around and then basically unscrewed the bolt-this made for an even spaced coil-never done it myself but it's what I would try if I was using Nickel.
Sorry-just saw that SD mentioned this method already, Duh!

 

I tried a machine screw today, my eyes cant see that fine a thread so I kept missing one, next I tried a self tapping screw but the spacing was too much. Ricks method works very well and produces a very even coil space.

 

Good advice! I have a VT40 and an SX Mini M. Both have their pros and cons. Just my observations from using both for a month or so:
SX Mini M/Yihi SX350J chipset.
More configurations. With the latest firmware, there's 5 power characteristics, ranging from Eco to Powerful+. This adjustment does not affect the actual wattage/voltage/amperage/joules. It's a ramping feature that changes the intensity and speed of your pre-set power delivery to the coil. Simply put, it's like a light dimmer. You can turn the light on immediately at full power, or you can turn the light on slowly making it brighter and then darker. This is a very slick feature because juices have different flavor properties and vapers have different vaping profiles depending on tastes and immediacy needs. This power delivery curve feature may seem gimmicky to some, but I use it with some regularity, depending on the mix ratio of PG to VG. VG is more viscous, so it takes a bit more power in the beginning of the hit to get it going and vaping strongly. Powerful mode ramps the electricity higher and faster (slightly above your preset) when you hit the firing button and then ramps down slowly as you continue to inhale. Powerful+? More so.

Also, the SX350J has 5 memory profiles. These are cool if you use different builds requiring different power and temp settings. So you can store profiles for your drippers, i.e 2, 3, 4 coil decks and have a couple of memory settings left over for tanks and their individual power requirements. Very easy to set up and even easier to toggle through the memory settings.

The SX Mini M is considerably heavier than the VT40. No kidding; it's very noticeable. As is posted everywhere, the battery cap is finicky. The OEM silicone cover does not need to be removed to replace the battery, which is nice. I have yet to order a sleeve for my VT40, so, no comment on this one yet.

Joules: Well, the SX350J has a joules feature and there are numerous opinions on YT about joules. Simply, it's a measurement of electronic effort and vaping output, regardless of voltage, wattage and amperage. If you were really into it, you could use the figures to analyze your usage. It's just a different way of seeing things and what the unit is being asked to do. Yes, joules has a correlation to wattage, so no need to get disturbed when trying to set up power output to the coil. 50 watts/50 joules. Either way, you're in about the same place, power-wise in temp control mode.

Some of the extra features included in the YiHi SX350J chipset might strike some as being superfluous. The YiHi also give a slight wattage advantage over the VT40. Do you need it? Only you can answer that question. And if you want a lighter, simpler, less expensive, yet equally sophisticated and uber high-quality mod, you can't go wrong with an Evolv DNA40-equipped mod, like the VT40, which is what I'm hitting on while I write this. The auto-switch orientation on the screen of the Yihi is extra slick. The DNA only gives you right/left options. The tilt to adjust settings feature on the Yihi? Hehhe... no.

Tactility and haptics on both units are first-class. Build quality; equally so. Will they drain your 18650's and suck up juice like an old Cadillac drinks gas? Yup. But regarding vape quantity and potential for extreme - clean flavor quality, depending on your building skills, both deliver the goods in triplicate. It's just like camera shopping though. The most important thing to consider is "do you like holding it?" Try them both out while fully assembled, battery and tank included, like Siam Diesel said.

In photography, the old saying goes "the best camera in the world is the one you carry with you all the time". We vape - we carry. All the time. Fall in love with what you are holding first, then figure out the rest once your hands are happy.

Enjoy the adventure!

Oh... just a cool tidbit. I went to YiHi's website a moment ago. The invite visitors One of these visa-run days, I might have to run to Shenzhen just for sh*ts and giggles.

**Updated**

Oh yes... forgot. There are two "gotchas" to be aware of with each unit:

1) SX Mini M: The battery cap. You could sprout a few more gray hairs by the time you finally get the cap off. It's excessively deep and longly threaded. Once you celebrate your birthday and get the spent battery out, drop the fresh one in, positive end down. Place the cap over the battery gently. It's all about gently here. Wiggle it around until it is square or parallel to the base. Personally, I gently rotate the cap anti-clockwise to feel for the threading to engage. Once that's cool, I'll gently twist the cap with my fingertips to get it started and insure that I am not cross-threading the cap. Once it's beyond my ability to twist with my fingertips, I'll use a coin to finish up. Resistance to tightening happens gradually, becoming more and more towards the end. Eventually it will just stop. That's tight enough. It stops, you're done. Don't overdo it, Rambo. Not necessary.

2) Hcigar VT40: *Check Atomizer* starts blinking and you were happily puffing away just a few seconds ago. WTF? Right? Before you tear down your atomizer, waste your juice, rebuild your deck, assemble it all, ohm check it for shorts/continuity/resistance, put it back on, and STILL get the same error message (can ya tell I've been here before?).

Here's a tip. Turn the unit over so that the battery cap is facing you. Across the base on the other side from the battery cap, just below the mini USB port, you will see a slotted screw. That little screw is called a "chassis ground" and is responsible for making a connection between the negative end of your battery and the mod housing; thus, the "check atomizer" error message. Guess what... that little sucker loosens up sometimes and if it does, it will not disable the entire unit. However, it will prevent the board from firing the coil and give you the blinking bad news. Use a straight screwdriver to snug it back down. Or, an easy fix? Go to the hardware store and get some blue LockTite. Blue is the grade that does not permanently affix a bolt, nut or screw. That's what red does. Use red, and you'll never get the screw out ever again. Bad. Use the blue, Luke. It just keeps the screw from loosening. I've checked it out and its use has no negative effect, electronically, to the unit.

 

Check this out: Original Elephone ELE Star 80W TC Box Mod-44.78 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

Original Elephone ELE Star 80W TC Box Mod
- BLACK
"ELE star has the same chip as YIHI SX MINI. Multiple intelligent circuit protection, 200F - 580F. Function with 80W, apply for 0.15ohm resistance tank."

$44.78 for a mod with the SX350J Chip in it. Smoking Deal.

 

^Interesting. I can't help but think it is bullshit though.
80w, the screen font looks different, albeit in renders. I'll certainly keep an eye on it though..

 

I must admit--it's almost too good to be true-but, who knows.

 

A little more info: PRE SELL: ELEPHONE CIGAR ELE STAR 80W TC BOX MOD - Pre Sale - Elephone.cc

**Updated**

I hope it is in fact true. It sure seems like Ele is pushing it pretty hard for it to be false but weirder things have happened.