TCR for UD SS316L

To be fair, I can't really expound a a scientific argument to assert that a 20% TCR difference is reasonable given the allowable variation (relatively small in absolute percentage terms) in nickel, chromium and molybdenum since I'm not a materials scientist. I'd already seen this data you post, however I still think that a 20% TCR variation in a single grade of SS316L seems unreasonably large. It renders the whole notion of SS316 TC completely useless....

EDIT: vapers are such tech geeks....perhaps why I'm drawn to the community

 

dl12345, if you are vaping SS at 160 C then there is something wrong. It should vape and behave exactly the way Moog discribed on the previous page. The temp range is similar to Ti just vapour feels somewhat warmer.

 

That is exactly what many people have said in the past and is a major problem with SS wire, no matter what grade. Some still believe that true TC with SS will never be reliable. The TCR is very low to start with and the variances between the grades and alloys make it hard to get a handle on. With the other materials (Ti1, Ni200) the TCR is much higher and practically no difference in wire content.

 

Indeed. My one spool I vape at 220c. This is the branded one...the other spool is bogus methinks

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So I guess were reduced to fiddling TCR values empirically until the manufacturers of the wire see fit to supply the correct value printed on the spool of wire....

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There's always the possibility that a particular wire's composition, particularly with SS varieties, can have an impact on how well TC functions with a built in profile. Compounding this more so, mods like Joyetech/Wismecs that are have inaccurate built-in profiles and TCR value to temp performance to begin with. Another factor to keep in mind when comparing is the atty. I have found that with these before-mentioned mods, the variance in performance can be pretty large with the same spec build in two different attys. Based on a previous attempt with an SS316L coiled atty one a couple of these mods, 160 C could in fact be what is needed as it was extremely overpowered using the default profile. Put on another SS316L atty yesterday and the default profile seemed decent enough and only somewhat inaccurate. For the other attys on these Joyetech/Wismec mods, once I have the TCR dialed-in they work very nicely.

If you would like more semblance of consistent TC accuracy, Joyetech/Wismec mods with current firmware may not provide it without using custom TCR values that oftentimes need to be quite a departure from the widely recognized defaults. The Yihi, and a few other chipset mods are better without much if any need to tinker, especially the DNA200. Except for a slight difference of one atty producing a moderately warmer or cooler vape than another due to atty design or perhaps internal resistance differences, my attys, including SS316L-coiled, have all run pretty accurately with no big issues on my DNA200 mods.

If running wire comparisons, recommend using a known accurate mod and same atty as otherwise the testing could have far too many variables to be useful for anything but a specific mod, atty, material and coil combination observation.

 

100 % agree on the DNA200. I tend to use the same build-atty combos and once I set it, I can pretty much forget it.

 

For my eVic Mini I concur TCR works even better than preconfigured TC. However the 105 - 108 as suggested for Cubis / Wismec is to hot for me. I can vape SS316L at 88, and adjust the temp somewhat higher. 92 works like a charm, coil for coil, tank for tank.

It is important making the coil spaced, not a single point of wire touching it's neighbour. Some people do a mistake by changing CL or CLR coil heads with the tank base being seated in the mod. This can cause problems with the resistance reading and problems with TC.

 

Either that, or it needs a re-set of TCR value for that one. But I guess you know.

 

I totally agree on that. I use the DNA200 all day as number one mod, but as I always have 2 flavors running I choose the Evic as number 2 as I feel it gives me a better vape than the Cuboid.

On the DNA 200 I can change tanks and just choose the profile for that tank and I am good to go. Really worth the money.

 

On all three of my Joyetech/Wismec mods the needed TCR for SS316L can range from 90 all the way up to 110 depending on the atty and build as most often it is way too cool compared to the temp value chosen while, as I mentioned before, it can be way too hot with the built in profile. For the one atty I recently setup, the built-in profile was OK and only needed a 20 or 30 F or so adjustment higher to get it vaping fairly accurately.

What I really need to get my hands on is a nice, compact, dual battery DNA200 mod. My VT200 and Hana are very nice but the convenience of battery swap-out on the fly would be a nice plus.

 

Due to a nagging distrust of the wire I have that's labelled SS316L, I took both spools of 28awg and measured their electrical resistivity with my multimeter. It comes out to 10.7 ohms per metre and 10.6 ohms per metre respectively. According to steam-engine, it should be 9.27ohms per metre (SS317L is just on 10 ohms per meter). That's a measured difference of > 10% off the steam-engine spec.

Anyone else with a multimeter and some 28awg SS316L or SS316 (they're close in resistivity terms) able to measure 1m of their wire and tell me what result they get?

 

Been on my radar though I'd like it if it were smaller yet and also had a different battery cover/door solution. Still, I may go for it anyway.

 

Tried TC a couple of times with SS, it was a disaster both times using 26ga UD 316L.
On the dicodes the first vape after initialising was OK but never reached temp, then the coils temp reading when idle dropped to -99c. The DNA200 and the eVic mini hit temp almost immediately producing very little vapor.
Apart from the ability to dry burn I have very little incentive to persevere with it as I just can't be arsed with all the faff at the moment.

Was happy with the vape from titanium and NiFe30, I'll stick to the titanium for the time being.

**Updated**

I rewicked and dropped the power by 5w and it seems far more stable. At 33w it seems to just keep heating up until it dry hits, but at 27w it stays just below 260c.

**Updated**

Performs better (in this experience) on the DNA200, in that I can push more power into it without it passing the set temp. The eVic is still dead, I'll try it again after its cooled down and been reset.
Dicodes default tcr for SS is 105, but I switched to 95, the eVic is on 94. I created a custom .csv for the DNA200.