Reuleaux RX200 / Evic VTC Mini TC - verification

I seem to spend more time fiddling with my mods to try and understand their bizarre behaviour than actually vaping! I'm coming to the conclusion that they're both unusable in SS316 TC mode. I've observed some behaviour that I have duplicated on both devices and I'm interested to see if other forum members with these devices can duplicate my results. You will need some 28awg SS316 wire to test, as well as 26 or 24 awg for your lower ohm builds.

These results were duplicated with two different attys (both Kanger Subtank Minis) on both RX200 and Evic VTC mini. I believe this points to firmware problems with the mods (since they share the same firmware).

• Regardless of the wire gauge or resistance, when putting in a new coil when the resistance is unlocked and then locking the resistance, the mod overrides the wattage settings to 30w and doesn't engage TC. I need to pulse fire a few times, remove the atty, reinsert and pulse it four times before it respects the wattage setting. For example, on a 0.9 ohm coil build I dropped the watts to 10w. On firing during the first atty insert, it overrode the watts to 30 watts. Only after removing, reinserting and pulsing four times did it respect the wattage setting. This occasionally happens even with a coil that has been reinserted although I cannot work out how to reproduce it consistently. This all does a great job of torching the higher ohm builds when putting 30w through them!. EDIT: just unscrewing the atty then putting it back in will cause it to override the wattage settings until pulsed four times....
• Build a coil with 28awg to around 2 ohms. Anything higher than 1.5 should work. Insert atty. Switch to SS316 mode. Press fire button once. It automatically jumps to wattage mode. I cannot use coils of resistance greater than about 1.4 ohms on both devices.
• i'm completely unable to consistently force "new atomiser" reset. Inserting a low ohm coil (0.2 ohms) then removing the atty, hitting the fire button to supposedly force a reset, then putting in a one ohm atty does not trigger the new coil dialog as it should, according to the manual.

Frankly, I'm about ready to bin both these devices. They're completely unusable in SS316 TC mode.

 

I did my first SS build last night and used the VTC Mini. Unlike with TI and Ni200, way-way overpowered with the built-in SS316 setting. Was beginning to suspect I was sold another type of SS because it was so terribly overpowered and who knows, I may have been. Seemed to read the resistance just fine but who knows as that is only a displayed reading. With the built-in SS316 profile a temp setting of 400 F equals about 450 F. Again, completely opposite of Ni200 and Ti behaviors I have described in other posts. A TCR setting of 105 (a value that's near or at the default for SS304) seems to bring the temp setting in alignment with actual temp.

Haven't had any problems with wattage settings or jumping out of TC mode <knock on wood!>. With a situation where your setup jumps out of TC mode, lots of people have had that with SS and it's sometimes a poor build or poor connection either at the coil itself, the mod or the atty.

For resistance of a SS coil, I would aim for something in the .3 to .5 range and avoid high resistance builds as those can be a problem exacerbating problems with resistance readings and the like.

Just a side comment that I do like SS quite a bit. I have noticed a bit of a metallic taste, particularly with the build being new. Seems to be slowly diminishing.

 

Sure, the temps under-read a lot. I pointed this out in a different thread

I'm interested to see if you can replicate the first problem on your VTC mini - put in a new coil. Limit watts to about 15. Press fire and watch the watts jump to 30. Then press fire 4 times and it will respect the wattage limit.

Same thing happens after the device sleeps.

The jumping out of SS mode is 100% repeatable with a coil > 1.5 ohms. It doesn't happen at lower ohms. It happens on two mods with two different attys and multiple different coil builds on different decks. It's not the coil or a poor build or a bad connection.

Absolutely, I love the taste. This is why I'm struggling instead of just going to wattage mode.

 

I've pointed that out and lots of examples in previous posts of mine either regarding the VTC Mini or it was the RX200. They both act pretty much identically.

Tried and not seeing it happen here. Just tried again after it sleeps and nope, it never goes above my wattage test setting of 15W.

I'd still recommend you stick to a lower resistance as 1.5 is high for TC and may be especially high and problematic with SS and you have no issues when lower. It's not very common to see people trying to run TC builds with resistance that high. Not that it is wrong but the number of coil wraps probably come into play and these mods may not be setup to work with them well at those resistances, even if technically they are within spec as being supported with TC. Is there a particular reason why you are building at high resistance? The only thing you would be achieving really is perhaps some modest amount of additional battery run time by going with lower wattage. Most TC builds, even at low resistances are not going to require more than maybe 40 W or so max.

 

Interesting. Perhaps it is an artefact of the Kanger Subtank. My Kayfun V4 is being delivered tomorrow - I'll see if it has the same problem and report back.

I generally use a 0.5 - 0.7 ohm build. Out of curiosity, since I'm an MTL vaper, I thought I would try a higher ohm build to see if there was a measurable taste difference and noticed the behaviour. Even on a 0.6 ohm build I'm vaping at around 20w, which seems to give me the best taste with the juice I use.

 

From what I know off the Joyetech social site Tc does work with SS only up to 1.5 ohm.

 

I was going to chime in on same thing. TC on most mods will work at up to 1-1.5 ohm after that it puts you in wattage mode. SS is going to be harder to nail down because of all the different grades and it's low TCR value to start with.. I have been using 316L and with the proper setting it generally works very well. The pre-loaded SS profile for the device may be a different type of SS or have the wrong value to begin with. The Cuboid and RX200 should be using the same TCR values and I have not had any problems with the Cuboid when set to SS316L. I build around 0.3 to 0.4 for SS316L.

 

As well, I found TC starts being unreliable below 0.3 ohms, at least with my SS316L.

 

As I understand it the TC works by measuring the resistance change of the coil as it gets hotter. Please feel free to correct me though as it may not work like that with all mods i guess. The resistance changes as the coil gets hotter and if the coil doesn't get hot quick enough and change resistance sufficiently in a set time period the board will assume that it is heating a non TC coil and change to wattage mode. So my thinking is that a 1.5 ohm coil may not heat quickly enough at 30 watts and so the Board changes to Power mode. Have you tried applying more power with the same temperature setting to heat the coil quickly and see what happens?

Just spit balling here of course and I may have misunderstood my research.

**Updated**

Having said all that a 28g single at 1.5 ohms should heat pretty quickly, so maybe I'm full of a brown substance that smells bad. lol

 

Confirmed same behaviour with Kayfun V4

 

Kayfun V4s are well known for not being the best with TC due to its internal design and resistance characteristics. I've had good luck with them but definitely had to make sure the JFC was completely wide open when using. If it wasn't, the resistance reading could sometimes be different and the vape changes.

 

Yep, agreed. Noticed this already...I'm considering modding it with a brass bushing. The spring is a stupid design.

 

I bought a kit that had a solid replacement for the spring. Seemed to help a little.

 

Yes, that's exactly what I had in mind. Where did you source?

 

If I remember correctly it was from Steam Tuners