OBS Engine... Best RTA Ever?

This is a relatively good design for wicking, very similar to the Billow V3, Griffin RTA and a few others in that it's fairly easy to get the wicking right. Certainly for me, there are two elements to getting good wicking. The first is to use decent cotton. I've tried everything from not-specific-for-vaping cotton like Muji, to specialist vaping cotton. Without a doubt, the two best performing cottons are Kendo Vape Cotton and Team Vape Labs cotton, which initially repel the juice when priming but have a huge capacity to wick once saturated.

The second thing is that each different type of RTA has its own quirks that need to be addressed. In almost all cases I trim the ends and edges of my wicks in a manner specific to the RTA in order to avoid the wick itself bunching up in key areas which impede the flow of juice. With these tanks above, one just needs to trim the ends so that they're going almost to the bottom of the juice holes without bunching up anywhere. Don't overtrim either, as there should be some wick material resting on the build deck around the holes. Too much trimming and there's less material to suck in the juice and deliver it to the coil. I trim my wicks when they're already primed, as it's difficult to judge how much to trim on a dry wick.

It's often necessary to trim the top part of the wick where it folds downwards towards the juice holes so that when the chamber is screwed on that it does not press against the wick too much as this then compresses the wick and prevents juice flow. This is less of an issue with cotton like Muji and more of an issue with cotton like the Kendo or Team Vape labs which tends to flare out more. Getting the length of the wick right is important for RTAs like the Uwell Crown RBA and Kanger Subtank, as a too long wick will fold back on itself and restrict the flow of juice.

 

Kudos @dl12345

The Mage also has the same facility,that when the chamber is 'locked' correctly, the wick cannot get bunched,
when the glass tank is tightened...

Regarding type of Cotton, totally agree... When I wicked my Kayfun V5, with organic cotton balls,
I didnt get great flavour, but with Cotton Bacon, the flavour came alive...

Regarding the Kanger & Crown, before I assemble the top cover of the deck, I cut my wicks,
flush to the deck,then prime with juice, then I make sure, the wick spreads across the deck, to ensure, the atty will absorb the juice, and not leak...

 

I've found that 2 26g 7 wrap spaced coils at 35 watts is good, I've also played with the airflow and found the opposite to normal tanks, the more the air is closed off the more muted the flavor, I've been rocking mine wide open and then the flavor pops, oh and coils are coming out at 0.46 ohms. ive tried a few builds but this seems to be the best, keeping the watts reasonable and not killing juice or battery too quick.

 

Very informative posts. Comforting to know that vapers who put a lot more effort and experience than me into building struggle sometimes. Sorted the Subtank Minis months ago. The Bachelor Nano is simple, and I could always buy the really cheap factory coils. The one I really want to sort out is the Serpent Mini. I'm resorting to using odd bottles of so so juice in it, knowing that if the wicking is wrong again, it will all have leaked out onto the tissue I now stand it on overnight.

 

@skeeters

Interesting regarding having the airflow to its maximum..

Do you have the 2 coils positioned .at the top of the posts, or halfway?

 

to be honest i tried the Trevor jones build using tiger wire both coils in both top holes and yes at the top of the posts, and I didn't like it so now it's half way as normal coil's would be, and with the 26g spaced coils im liking it, but before that build I was not impressed.

 

im a bit surprised that people have trouble wicking this tank. that is usually my issue but this is the first tank where i just push the cotton through the holes and it has kept up great. three builds ranging from .3-.7 ohms all with no dry hits.

i have been keeping my cotton long and having it extend through the holes just above the juice well base. i normally use a moderate amount of cotton. enough to fill the holes but not enough to cause much resistance when putting it through.