Help Kangertech topbox mini leaking on air flow

Hello vaper friends,
I got a kangertech topbox mini several months ago, it was leaking on the air flow, I watch many topics on this subject and try all without success.
After deep checking, it is not juice but condensate and you can watch all movies which say 'problem solved' by adding cotton or by cutting the end of coil to the seal or changing the gaskets of the tank, it will not solve anything.
You have 2 possibilities, due to the huge holes in the bottom of the already made coil (occ, socc) the condensate is creating very fast to the bottom close to the air flow, because the smoke is going freely in and out due to the size of the holes on the bottom of the coil (when you clean frequently the mouth piece you see an amount of condensate, so imagine the same quantity at the bottom...), so you have to clean the air flow every day then you will not have any issue.
2nd possibillity, you use RDA which as smaller hole and the smoke will go out but very less in, in this case after 2 days you will see just a small amount of condensate which will even not leak in horizontal position. Don't worry and enjoy vaping!

 

Have the same problem after changing from premade coil to rta... the moment i blow some air into drip-tip like i usually do when i used premade coil.. it just starts leaking from the airflow hole.. at first i thought it was the problem with wicking but im sure its probably the rta thingy for this subtank.

Ps. I remove the airfloe adjustment ring from subtank and make a better airflow and i kind of loving it!! Sl

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

For wicking, i use kendo gold edition which bring the right amount of juice, this help as well. You can see how long it needs to prime with juice the first time...around 5min

 

Edit: I know the post is long, if you have any top fill tanks then it's worth a read.

I have only had a problem when filling. It has to leak, you put a positive pressure in the tank when tightening the top fill cap. The wick is basically a combined cotton and liquid seal. the positive pressure in the tank will equalise with pressure outside the tank if it can. It can, by pushing liquid through your wick seal.

I tried screwing the cap on and quickly turning it upside down. Doesn't work. It's basically instant. The juice you pushed out just runs up the chimney and out thru your drip tip. Wasted juice.

Take the base off and fill it that way. Problem is you can only fill it to the bottom of the chimney this way. I was sick of having to squirt vodka through the airflow to clean the wasted juice out.

Pierre, try this for a few days and let us know if you still have to clean your airflow every day. My Atlantis ( bottom fill ) I clean the airflow when I change the coil. There is usually a tiny amount of condensates in there. No need for cleaning in between coil changes.

Sorry, have to finish my rant. If you have a tank such as a SCrave Supreme with juice control. You can shut off the juice flow, fill the tank and replace top cap. Now the positive pressure is trapped open your juice flow and same thing. Liquid past your wicking.

Turn your tank upside down. Shut off juice flow. Turn upright, cap off fill tank. Cap back on, turn upside down again and open juice flow. Now air pushes through your wick seal. ( Surprise Surprise, Just like it does with bottom fill tanks ).

People with a supreme may not notice it because the juice just sits around the deck. Fill it without the upside down turns then lay it on its side without vaping. You will get juice out your air flow control.

I don't like top fill. Bottom fill is simple, less moving parts and almost idiot proof. You would think tank manufactures would understand this issue. I don't think they do. Sorry for ranting.

Edit 2: I have a Cleito, a very nice vaping tank. I can't work out a way to bottom fill it. I screw the cap on quickly take a vape which is usually wet and discusting. I still end up with a drop or 2 of liquid in the base/airflow control. Drives me mad.

 

Thank you very much for your advise, in my case the problem is solved with the RDA, and I want to share this experience as so many people complained about leaking on air flow.
Thanks again!

 

I had exactly the same problem with the Top Box Mini set. I tried the different supplied coils and still dripping and bad taste no matter how I played with it. I ordered an Aspire Nautilus atomizer to replace the one supplied with the Kanger kit and behold all was perfect from the first puff. No leaks just perfect vaping. I have retired the Kanger atomizer and just chalked it up to bad design. The Aspire works perfectly in TC mode with the Top Box Mini.

Aside from the dripping issue I would warn anyone that changing the air flow by twisting the base on the Kanger is a real challenge. On the Aspire adjusting the airflow is smooth and simple.

I should also mention that the Top Box Mini Mod itself is working very well for me so it was not a total waste.

 

My air flow ring isn't that bad but it is much tighter than the Aspires. I haven't had any leaks since I started bottom filling it, basically reduces your capacity though. Taste, I only tried the RBA which was good for a few days then started flooding after a few top fills. I recently got a couple of gClapton coils off Micky and they are quite good. Far from my favourite tank though.

 

Sounds like we pretty much agree about this. I am very new to vaping but I am a very technical guy so the physical challenge was not a problem for me. Having now owned both the Kanger and the Aspire atomizers I can simply say there is no contest.....the Aspire wins by miles. If I had only the Kanger experience I would not be vaping and probably would have given up on the idea of vaping.

 

Being a heavy consumer of the SubTank mini, have recently bought the TopTank mini to get the top filing advantage, and after 1 week of intensive use, no issue so far... How long time after first use did you get the leaking problems on your TopTanks ???

 

I used the 1.6 supplied with the Nichrome (NC) setting and it worked perfectly. When I switched to the 1.8 coil I had to go to manually set the watts (11) as I understand the TC mode only works up to 1.5 (1.6 was close enough).

**Updated**

In my case it started the second day. The base on mine was so tight that trying to twist to adjust the air intake almost required vise grips. I think my tank might have been a dud out of the box. Perhaps some variation in manufacturing. Yes, mine was genuine not a copy. I was so happy to find the Aspire I didn't really worry about my bad luck with the Kanger. After all, it is not big money involved.

 

I used the TC mode with only with the 1.6 Nichrome coil BVC supplied with the Aspire. The Kanger top Box mini has a setting for Nichrome in TC mode while I notice many other mods don't have that. When I switched to the 1.8 coil I used the power mode.

I'm new at this but I took the time to google until I found a source that confirmed that the BVC coils were Nichrome. If that was bad information all I can say is that it worked on that setting perfectly at a temp of about 300F. I switched to power mode when I changed to the 1.8 coil.

I am still in the learning mode with all this but the Aspire made all that easy.

 

Straight away, every time after filling via the top