Introducing the Evolv DNA 40 Temperature Protection Board

Very nice feature set!! Interesting the need to use Nickel 200 wire to take advantage of the temp control.

 

No more dry hits...no more bad taste...no need for 2000 watts

 

Freaking amazing, I never would have thought of using "non-resistance" wire for heating. It does make sense though, the technology has been there for ages:

Resistance thermometer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I'm guessing the Vapor Flask "DNA-30" that goes on sale on the 14th for $300 is really the DNA-40 version. I'll probably just wait for the Vapor Shark rDNA-40 and buy it for myself for my Christmas. Luckily I have a 100' roll of 28 AWG pure nickel lying around.

 

The DNA-40 needs pure nickel wire to do its temperature measurement. Pure nickel wire is commonly used by the vaping community as "non-resistance" wire, you'll find it inside many of the pre-made coils out there. As we all know, Kanthal and Nichrome are "resistance wires". When electricity is run through them, the resistance of the wire is converted to heat, which is what vaporizes your juice. "Non-resistance" wire is used for coils that have long "legs", since you don't want the legs heating up. This is why recoiling a Protank head with just Kanthal will cause the insulators to melt a little bit.

While we call it "non-resistance" wire, all metals have some resistance. Its what makes the switch on your mechanical mods heat up when the contacts get dirty, and its what makes a power strip get hot when you have too many things plugged in. The nickel wire that is required for the DNA-40's temperature feature, if used on a mechanical mod, will cause a short. If you use it on any other regulated mod on the market, it won't work. I'm not sure what method they used to heat up the nickel, but I'm guessing they are just using the buck circuitry to decrease the voltage. Lets say you buy an extension cord in America, one of those big orange ones. We'll say its rated at 110v/15A. If you bring it over here and plug it in to 220v, you'll be able to use it up to 30A because the voltage is doubled. Using Ohm's law, the .06 ohm coil on Phil's DNA-40 would be using around 13A and .8v to put out 10 watts. This is 13A from the chip, not 13A from the battery, something that Brandon tries to emphasize in the video. 10 watts is being pulled from the battery, converted, and 10 watts outputted to the coil.

I hope that helps.

 

It'll work, you just won't be able to use the temperature cutoff feature.

 

It will work as normal, minus the temperature reading/cut off is what I gathered

 

For reference:

 

Funny you guys should mention this. I literally just got back from my local vape shop in Anaheim, and the vape flask was already for sale. I didn't know anything about it until I got back here and read this post. All I knew was that it had dual 18650 batteries, which I thought was a good idea. I didn't try it because I knew I was not going to spend $300 on a regulated mod. Had I known about it, I would have tried it to see how it worked. I did get a chance to try the vaporshark with the DNA 30 at the shop. This was my first return to regulated mods in a long time. (As many of you know, I am strictly mechanical at this time.) The battery was not fully charged so I couldn't go above 14 watts. It was nice little vape. I liked how it was not tubular shaped (like all of my mods) and it was a nice little sizze. The vapor flask was a little bit bigger, but also very compact considering it has dual 18650's.

I may just pick up one of these box mods, but not at this time. I am going to wait for the dust to settle. There has been so much MASSIVE innovation in the past 6 months that it is unreal how things are developing. All the DNA mods are a quantum leap from what we had last year, and I don't see an end to it any time soon. I know if I bought anything now, next month I would be outdated. And next month the better mod will be half the price.

**Updated**

this is a side by side of the Odysseus next to a Kayfun




P.S. All this talk about "non-resistance" wire...I had to go dig up the ol' Golden Greek "Odysseus" tank. Remember that one? Used to be my favorite tank...until Kayfun reworked the basic design into something that was more effective. (The Oddyseus was the first commercially available tank that utilized a screw down chimney design, IIRC). For those that don't remember, the "Oddy" (AKA "Terminator") to make it work you had to attach non resistance wire to resistance wire. A royal PIA. When it worked, however, it was a damn fine vape (actually it still is a fine vape, but still a PIA to coil). Ahhh...the memories of spending countless hours trying to get it to work.