DNA 40 boards stil giving problems

The actual percentage of devices with issues is really low, in the single digits from what I've heard. Still, you're right, best to wait it out since it's so hard to send things in for replacement from here.

 

I never read or asked this but is there going to be a smaller version of the Vaper Shark on the market with a DNA 20 or 30 that is temperature controlled?

Or will the only sell the rDNA 40?

 

They're still working on getting everything sorted with the rDNA-40, but they told me when I called that they would eventually update the DNA with a newer chip. Not sure though if it will be the DNA-40 chip or the upcoming DNA-25 chip. As far as I know, eVolv hasn't started production on the new chip yet, and with the issues they're currently having I'm guessing will be pushed back even further.

 

After a couple of weeks with my Vapor Flask, I have to say I love it, its my first regulated device above 15watts although I now have an istick too. I think I will be ordering a vaporshark too, but will wait for all the problems to be sorted. I was asured that my VF did not have the problem of sticking in temp mode, but after 2 weeks use, I can only say that its not great at auto detecting what type of coil it has. I quite often have to turn off the temp mode, and then off course back on when I switch back. I havent decided wether this is worth me shipping it back for repair, maybe ill wait until I have another device here to use.

 

It's very normal for the DNA 40 devices not to prompt you to confirm a new atty because it is not always needing to even if you put a different one on the device. It will autodetect when it can and also refines the resistance over time. Like very 5 minutes for the fist hour it is idle or something like that and I think it continues through time. This is the case with both of my devices and plenty of postings on the Web indicating it is normal. I am not sure I am recalling correctly but I believe Brandon from Evolv also mentioned this as normal and explains why in an interview. - Update - found it: 55:50 mark here:

What's not normal is it dropping out of TP mode, not coming out of TP mode or seeing fluctuations in your resistance readings. First thing to check if that is the case is your coil and whether it is shorting withing the coil itself or the legs are loose.

One thing you want to avoid doing is removing recently used attys and then re-attaching. They should sit for 5 to 10 minutes to cool.

To clarify one thing: I know Mack is talking about something different in that it is not autodetecting whether it's an Ni200 or Kanthal or other coil. Take a look at what he says starting at 53:50 as to what can cause the problems with that. I had switched between the two once and noticed it did not switch until I had fired the coil for a second or two then it switched. Not a big deal to me anyway as I always manually change it from past experience with non-Dna 40 devices and switching attys. I have always been careful to change wattage settings before firing any newly-introduced atty for a length of time. For example, switching between a .8 ohm atty to a 1.8 ohm clearo. If I didn't change the wattage it could create burn hits etc.

 

I quite often get the delay in displaying the switch, I think this may be normal and certaily not a big problem, looks like a software bug in upating the display more than not switching. But not switching automaticaly is anoying enugh to consider a warrenty clam.

 

Large screen version apparently

 

Thanks for the post, i was just about to order, ill put it on hold.

 

Todd's review of the Vaporfart ( watch and you'll understand ) rdna40 with the new bigger screen:

 

It puts me of buying any, but I have one in the post on its way. I bought it before my VF developed problems.